How to Choose a Drill Bit for Wood, Metal, or Masonry

Start with the material. Use wood bits such as brad-point, spade, or Forstner bits for wood. Use high-speed steel (HSS) twist bits for metal, and carbide-tipped masonry bits for brick, block, or concrete.

After that, narrow the choice by the hole you need and the drill you own. A bit can fit in the chuck and still be the wrong tool for the material, so good drill bit selection checks three things: material, hole shape, and tool fit.

Match the Bit to the Material First

Each material calls for a different tip shape, so pick the bit family before you think about size. Use this table to sort a mixed set quickly.

A bit's tip tells you its job. A sharp center spur points to wood. A plain cone-shaped point with a shiny or gold-colored body usually signals a metal twist bit. A flat, wide tip that flares out past the body is the mark of a masonry bit. The sections below explain when to change bits within each family.

Choose Wood Bits by Hole Shape and Finish

In wood, the hole you want decides the bit. A standard twist bit works for quick, rough holes, such as a pilot hole for a screw. If you need a clean, accurate hole that starts exactly on your mark, a brad-point bit is the better choice. Its sharp center spur keeps the tip from wandering, and its outer spurs cut the wood fibers before the flutes lift them out.

For larger holes, the choice depends on finish. A spade bit is flat and paddle-shaped. It bores big holes fast but leaves a rougher edge, so it fits hidden work like running wire through studs. A Forstner bit cuts a clean, flat-bottomed hole, which suits hinge cups and visible joinery. For very large round openings, a hole saw cuts a ring and removes a plug.

Screw holes are their own task. Pilot hole size changes with the wood and the fastener, and our guide to tuning a driver for wood covers how pilot holes and torque work together. Soft materials need extra care: when installing hinges in particle board, the right pilot hole helps prevent stripped screws.

Choose a Metal Bit for the Workpiece

For most metal work at home, an HSS twist bit is the standard pick. It handles mild steel, aluminum, copper, and sheet metal. Its angled point and spiral flutes shave metal away in small chips and carry them out of the hole.

The metal itself can change the choice. Harder metals such as stainless steel wear plain HSS quickly. For those, a cobalt bit is a better match, because the cobalt alloy holds its edge under more heat. Coatings such as black oxide or titanium nitride are applied to HSS bits, and the coating does not turn a plain HSS bit into a cobalt bit. Check the label for the base material.

Tip shape matters too. A split-point tip has small extra cutting edges at the center. It helps the bit start on a smooth, curved, or hard surface without skating off the mark. If your metal bits keep wandering, a split-point bit or a small dent from a center punch gives the tip a place to bite.

Keep wood bits out of metal. A brad-point spur is not built for metal and can dull or break.

Choose a Masonry Bit and Compatible Drill Mode

Masonry needs a carbide-tipped masonry bit. The carbide tip is much harder than steel, so it can chip and grind brick, concrete block, mortar, and concrete. An ordinary steel twist bit will dull quickly in these materials.

The drill matters as much as the bit here. Many masonry bits are designed for hammer action, where the drill pounds forward while it spins. That pounding breaks up hard material so the carbide tip can clear it. A standard drill/driver spins only, so it may make slow progress in concrete even with the right bit. If your drill has a hammer setting, it is usually marked with a hammer symbol on the mode collar. Check your drill's manual to confirm it has that mode before you plan a concrete job.

Shank type also changes the setup. SDS and SDS-plus bits have grooved shanks made for rotary hammers with a matching SDS holder. They do not belong in an ordinary three-jaw chuck. Round-shank masonry bits are made for regular chucks on hammer drills or drills.

Tile and glass are a separate case. Hammer mode can crack them, so use bits labeled for tile or glass and keep the drill in rotation-only mode unless the bit maker says otherwise. Chuck fit alone never proves a masonry bit and drill are a working match.

Check Bit Size and Shank Fit

Once you know the right bit family, size and shank can still rule a bit out. Start with the hole. The bit diameter sets the hole width, and the length of the cutting flutes limits how deep you can drill in one pass. If the hole needs to be deeper than the flutes, pick a longer bit.

Next, check the shank against your tool:

• Round shank: Fits a three-jaw keyed or keyless chuck. The shank must be no wider than the chuck's maximum capacity, which is listed in the drill's specs, often as 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch.
• Reduced shank: A large bit with a narrower shank so it fits a smaller chuck. The bit still needs a drill with enough power for that hole size.
• 1/4-inch hex shank: Snaps into quick-change holders and impact drivers. It also clamps in a standard chuck.
• SDS or SDS-plus shank: Needs an SDS holder, covered in the masonry section above.

If the shank does not match, stop and switch bits. A bit that is barely gripped can slip in the chuck, scar the shank, and leave a poor hole.

FAQs

How can I tell bits apart in a mixed set?

Look at the tip first. A sharp center spur means a wood bit. A wide, flat tip that flares past the body means a masonry bit. A plain cone-shaped point usually means a metal twist bit. Many bits also have the type and diameter stamped on the shank, so check there before you guess.

Can one bit handle wood, metal, and masonry?

Some bits are sold as multi-material bits. Use them only on the materials printed on the package, and in the drill mode it lists. For the cleanest holes and longest bit life, a bit made for one material usually fits the job better. That matters most for finish work in wood and for hard metals.

What does it mean if a bit stops cutting?

A bit that squeals, smokes, or just spins without making progress is often dull or wrong for the material. A wood bit in metal or a steel bit in concrete will show these signs fast. Stop drilling, confirm the bit type, and swap to a sharp bit made for that material.

Is a more expensive bit always better?

No. Price often follows material and coating, but the right type matters more than cost. A low-cost brad-point bit will drill cleaner wood holes than a costly cobalt bit. Spend more where the material demands it, such as cobalt for stainless steel or quality carbide for concrete.